When my friends found out I was in Korea, they all asked the same question: “Have you seen North Korea? Is it scary?” Consequently, I booked a DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) tour.
At first, I expected a thrilling adventure movie set. I imagined taking cool selfies with soldiers and buying “North Korean wine” as a souvenir. However, I treated it like a trip to Disneyland. Unfortunately, that was a big mistake.
The DMZ is not a tourist trap. In fact, it is the most heavily fortified border in the world. Furthermore, if you break the rules, you don’t just get kicked out—you cause an international incident.
Welcome to Level 1. Let me tell you how I almost got banned from the border because of my fashion choices.
The Facepalm Files: The Ripped Jeans Incident
Flashback: 2 years ago. The bus to the DMZ.
I wanted to look cute for the photos. Therefore, I wore my favorite ripped jeans, a camouflage t-shirt, and open-toed sandals. Also, I forgot my passport at home because I wasn’t leaving the country, right?
However, when we arrived at the checkpoint, a soldier boarded the bus. He looked at me. Then, he looked at my knees. Finally, he looked at my feet. “No passport. Improper attire. You cannot enter.”
I was shocked. “But I paid for the tour!” Nevertheless, the guide whispered, “Alice, ripped jeans are banned. It implies that South Korea is poor. Moreover, the camo? That’s asking for trouble.” As a result, I had to wait in the parking lot while everyone else went inside.
Enter “Ssam” (The Peacekeeper)
I met Ssam later, pouting about my wasted day. “Ssam, they are so strict! It’s just pants!”
Ssam looked serious. “Alice, you were standing meters away from North Korean soldiers. Specifically, they watch everything. It’s not a fashion show. It’s a ceasefire zone.”
He explained the Weight of the Border: “Technically, the war isn’t over. Therefore, one wrong move can trigger a shooting. Respect the tension.”
Level 3 Wisdom: Rules of the Border
Ssam gave me the briefing for my second attempt. Ideally, you should memorize this.
1. The Passport Rule (Absolute Zero)
You cannot enter the Civilian Control Line without a Passport.
- Crucially, photocopies don’t work. Driver’s licenses don’t work.
- Therefore, check your bag three times before you leave the hotel.
2. The Dress Code (Conservative)
Especially if you are visiting the JSA, the rules are strict.
- Banned: Ripped jeans, shorts, sleeveless tops, sandals, camouflage prints.
- Safe Bet: Dress “Smart Casual.” For example, wear jeans (no holes) and a collared shirt.
3. JSA vs. DMZ (Know the Difference)
- DMZ Tour: Includes the 3rd Tunnel and Observatory. It is easier to book.
- JSA (Panmunjom): This is the intense spot with blue conference rooms. However, availability fluctuates heavily due to politics.
Level 4: The Deep Dive (Ssam’s Insight)
(Why is this place so sad?)
The Scar That Hasn’t Healed
To tourists, the DMZ is a “cool” place. In contrast, to Koreans, it is a wound.
1. Separated Families When the border closed in 1953, millions of families were split. Consequently, parents were separated from children. They thought it would be for a few weeks. However, it has been 70 years.
2. The Wish for Unity The colorful ribbons on the barbed wire aren’t decorations. Instead, they are prayers for peace and reunification.
Alice’s Bottom Line: Look Beyond the Wire
Go to the DMZ. But don’t just look for “scary North Koreans.” Look at the land that used to be one country.
It is a sobering experience. Finally, please wear normal pants.
Survival Hangul: Border Terms
- “북한” (North Korea)
- “통일” (Unification)
- “여권 보여주세요” (Show passport)
Read This Next (Before You Make Another Mistake)
Done with history? Now experience modern Seoul.